Slow-Cooked Bolognese Sauce

 

Ragù bolognese is the undisputed heavyweight champion in the world when it comes to meat sauces. 

 

Lets Cook

 

1 quart homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock

1 to 1 1/2 ounces powdered gelatin (4 to 6 packets

1 (28-ounce) can peeled whole tomatoes, preferably San Marzano

1/2 pound finely minced chicken livers

1/4 cup  extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound ground beef chuck

1 pound  ground pork shoulder about

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons  unsalted butter

1/2 pound finely diced pancetta

1 large onion, finely minced (about 8 ounces)

2 carrots, finely chopped (about 8 ounces)

4 ribs celery, finely chopped (about 8 ounces)

4 medium cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup minced fresh sage leaves

1/2 cup minced fresh parsley leaves, divided

2 cups dry white or red wine

1 cup whole milk

2 bay leaves

1 cup heavy cream

3 ounces finely grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce

 

To Serve:

 

Dried or fresh pasta, preferably pappardelle, tagliatelle, or penne

 

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C) with the rack in the lower-middle spot. Sprinkle gelatin over the stock in a medium bowl or 1-quart liquid scale. Place aside. Purée the tomatoes in the can using an immersion blender or in the tub of a countertop blender until smooth. Purée the chicken livers in a cup that only matches the head of an immersion blender.

 

In a big Dutch oven, cook the olive oil over high heat until it shimmers. Cook, stirring and breaking up with a wooden spoon or potato masher, until the ground beef, pork, and lamb are no longer yellow, about 10 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the puréed chicken livers.

 

Meanwhile, in a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the butter and pancetta and cook, stirring constantly, until the fat has largely made but the butter and pancetta have not yet begun to tan, about 8 minutes. Cook, stirring and tossing sometimes, until the onion, carrots, celery, garlic, sage, and half of the parsley are softened but not browned, about 8 minutes. Combine with the beef mixture in a Dutch oven.

 

Return the Dutch oven to high heat and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until much of the liquid has evaporated from the pan, about 10 minutes more. Cook, stirring constantly, until the wine has largely evaporated. Combine the reserved stock, onions, milk, and bay leaves in a mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Get the sauce to a boil, then place it in the oven, uncovered. Cook, stirring and scraping down the sides of the pot regularly, for 3 to 4 hours, or until the liquid has almost entirely reduced and the sauce is dense and deep under a thin layer of fat. After 4 hours, if the sauce either appears liquid or the fat has not dissolved and formed a dense crust, move to the stovetop and finish cooking at a brisk simmer, stirring regularly.

 

Skim off the majority of the fat, leaving only 1 cup overall. (For a more accurate calculation, trim entirely and then fold 1 cup of fat back in.) Combine the heavy cream, Parmesan, fish sauce, and remaining parsley in a mixing bowl. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring continuously to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Bolognese can be cooled and refrigerated in sealed containers for up to 1 week.

 

In a big kettle, heat the sauce until it is just simmering. Place aside. Cook the pasta in a big pot of salted water until just al dente. Drain and set aside 1/2 cup of the cooking oil. Return the pasta to the pot and toss with only enough sauce to coat, as well as some of the cooking oil. Cook, swirling and stirring gently over high heat for 30 seconds, or until sauce is thick and pasta is covered. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve right away, passing the Parmesan at the table.